Trip Report – Sailing in Dubai

Went racing in Dubai. SA poster Desert Dingo was taking about racing in Dubai in the SA Forum, and I replied I would be in Abu Dhabi that week (150 km away). Desert Dingo said he was short a bowman on a Bene 44.7 called “Serdal Dubai” – was I interested? Against my better judgement (about the bowman thing), I said yes and pushed my trip forward a couple of days to do it.

First off where is Dubai? It is a small city – state, in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) - A confederation of city- states, on the southern part of the Arabian Gulf . The UAE got independence from the UK in about 1972 and has lots of oil. Dubai is a (for the region) very forward looking city and has tried to make itself the new tourist, trading, and banking center of the mid east.

But never mind that, what’s the sailing like? Mostly light air, and all the sailing is done in the winter. The April regatta was the last race of the season – it just gets too hot there in the summer. The season is a mix of short course racing with a few distance races throw in. This particular race was the final leg of the 200,000 dhs (55,000 USD) Maktoum cup. Next year the govt. is putting up 500,000 dhs. as prize money for the series.

OK, I flew from CA to London, over nighted, then got the morning flight to Abu Dhabi. Then I got to the hotel about 9:00 PM to be greeted by the news that it was the Prophet Mohammed’s birthday and no alcohol would be served in the country from sunset to sunset. Damn.

Next day is Thursday, the first day of the Arab – Muslim weekend and I get a ride from a co-worker to Dubai. After only a little trouble we find the marina and I walk down the dock to find the boat and Desert Dingo (DD) (an Aussie ex-pat) pulling crap off the boat for racing. I introduce myself and we get most of the heavy stuff off the boat and I look around my office.

We chat about logistics and stuff – he points to the 150 foot motor yacht next to us and indicates the owner owns that too, and I would get a cabin for the night. Cool. Turns out that the lead boat in the series (driven by Christophe Vanek ) is owned by a sheik, which makes it seem like bad manners to beat him, except that our owner is a sheik too. Unfortunately the 1st place boat has an unbreakable lead, and our goal is to move from 3rd to 2nd for the series.

The rest of the crew shows up and we go on out to the racecourse. The owner doesn’t sail so it is all ex pats on board. DD is driving and there are other ausies & brits on board, a couple of Danes (I think – they complained about Heineken anyway) and maybe a Canadian or two – not really sure. I have competent guy doing mast and his cute daughter is my mid bow (she also packs the kites – thanks Nicky).

The race area is really close to shore – in view of all 45 (45!!!) 20+ story residential towers going up all at once. That could fuck up the wind (like Toronto), but fortunately the prevailing wind blows along the side of the shore, clocking right, out to the Gulf.

The RC and the 2 judge boats are ready for the 12 boat IRC fleet. There are 2 classes, but we all start as one. We are the big boat, then there are some bene 36.7s and a J120 and some other random stuff. The races are short leg, three lap W/L. Each leg is about 10 minutes. It is getting warm - maybe 90F (32 C) and humid too. The breeze gets up to about 13 kts.

We get a 1,2 & 3 for the day. I don’t fuck up too bad and nothing breaks, but jeez I am whacked – it’s tough doing that in that heat

On the way in someone pulls out a cold 12 of Heineken – man that tasted good.

On the dock the discussion is “what time is it and when does the prophet’s birthday end” so we can legally drink. We stay on the dock drinking beer & rum drinks ‘till it is dark, and we are for sure legal. Met may fine folks – very friendly people. Met a couple of other SA posters too. I go get a shower on the big yacht, then feeling much better, we went up to a bar at the hotel on the marina, where we drank many more beers.

Three races for Friday too, about an hour each, but these start way inshore inside a little flat island. The start line is right on the shore – very little room to maneuver. The Hotel is over to the left, and the crew was telling me that the last time they raced there, an army helicopter was doing duty as a camera platform and crashed in the water right between the boats and the hotel. (yikes)

It’s hot again and I am downing water by the liter. The wind builds to about 18 during the day and we go to the #2. It’s all fun – DD takes a few boats up at the start and generally amuses himself yelling at all the other boats.

Couple of mistakes on the racecourse cost us the win - We are second for the regatta, one point back. We do well enough to move us up from third to second overall.

Back at the dock I am whacked. Stomach muscles are strained, I got forearm pump, and my calves are starting to cramp up. After a bit I feel better and as the shiek has sent a cooler full of Heinekens around and I have a few of those cold restoratives and start to feel a bit better. We put the boat away and brick all the sails to be sent to Aus for the summer. After a bit the TV guys show up and we have to hide the beers for the trophy presentation (Can’t be no beers on the sheik’s boat for TV). Then we go to the bar for a bunch more drinks, then I caught a cab back to Abu Dhabi and work the next day.

That was fun, I can recommend Dubai to anyone. Thanks to Desert Dingo for having me, and it was good meeting the rest of you guys. Look me up when you get to So Cal.

Random thoughts on Dubai & the UAE

About 20% of the residents are nationals, the rest are guest workers & ex pats

It gets hot there – 125 F (51 C) is not uncommon in the summer – and humid. Death Valley, Libya and the UAE all claim to have the heat record @ about 136 F (57C). But it is humid in the UAE. The hotels don’t heat the pools, they actually refrigerate them.

The money and the construction projects are just stunning. 45 luxury residential high rises going up all at once – where there was just sand 2 years ago. Plus Palm Island and World Island (google on them if you want) -–enormious man made residential islands.

It is still a Muslim country. – foreigners can buy alcohol at special state stores – but you gotta have a special card and they punch off the allowed amount – no more.

Outside the cities there is just sand – and lots of it.

Dubai sailing center website - http://www.dimc-uae.com/sailing/

PeteM